Las Palmas

When we arrived to Las Palmas we still had no idea who the captain was going to take as crew to Cap Verde. We landed, bought some food and headed to have meeting with the other intended crew of the ship. During shopping we found out that the expenses of the cruise were much higher than what we originally had thought. So far I have been paying for food something around 10e a day, for this boat expenses were over 17e. At the meeting it turned out that the other crew was as loosely informed as we were. The Italian guy had acquired a boat already and the girl from belgium was not too eager to join. It was up to us to decide if we wanted to join the boat. As the atmosphere was a bit tense, captain obviously quite indececive, language of boat was France and expenses a bit too high I decided to jump the boat. Thomas did the same after me and boat ended up with just two person going to Cap Verde in the end.

Night at the beach

We slept the night in the boat and next morning had early start in the harbour meeting with all boats in order to join. We made few contacts with promising boats and it was already late evening when we finished the days work. In the city was WOMAD festival going on and after some dinner we headed to the festival. Music was great but people seemed to be mostly interested in getting drunk. We did not find any place to sleep so at 4 in the night the best alternative was the beach in the north peninsula of the city. Night was not cold but some small drizzles did occur.

Morning view

Beach hotel

In the morning I felt quite tired and after a small lunch and chilling in the park we tried to find internet access for searching accomodation. After failing in that we decided to head to a squat house which the belgian girl had recommended.

Stone on beach

Auditorium

Surfer

La Tomatera was buzzling with life although they said there had been much more people before. They had recently introduced a set of rules in order to organize the house a bit. We were allowed to stay for one week as the previous guests had just left. La Tomatera had interesting mixture of people living in a community kind of resembling a large falimy, including mostly artists, hippies and lunatics. I felt comfortable there and was looking forward to the soon to be occupation of another nearby house for the community.

Entrance hall

Toilet with water

Alice in wonderland in Spanish

Livingroom

We spent one evening painting the walls

Night vision

Thomas plays guitar much better than flute

My fingerprints in the wings

Someone added rainbow arch for dancing couple

My favourite drawing in the house 

Everyone were still sleeping when I headed for the boat

I got a email of one boat i had been hoping to join and they welcomed me aboard. It was quite hard decicion for me to choose between luxurious passage overseas and possibility of being a part of building the community. I chose the passage as I knew it would be hard to find as good one later.

For long time I have concidered myself as an excellent chef but When I had my first lunch in the boat it was the first time ever I have questioned my skills in making food. The standards our boat has in cuisine are amazingly high. The olive oil they brought from Italy is by far the best I have ever tasted, the guava marmalade was truly incredible and wine also top notch. Mariantoinette is professional chef and that can not be missed.

In the last few days we prepared the boat for the passage and trained a bit lifting the sails. Next sunday starts my first big ocean crossing.

The ARC starts on sunday

Thula Thula (Fuerteventura - Gran Canaria)

Abandoned City Hall

Intruder

Friendly police behind doors

 Our Captain Jean Pierre left with plane back home and left us waiting for next ride to Gran Canaria. We found ourselves from old abandoned city hall. After 10 minutes of looking around the police came behind the closed doors. They found another way in and kindly escorted us out. We went together to the nearby police station and took a photocopy of my driving licence. The building was very nice but according to the police it had been unused for years because of water in the basement.

This and that

The next boat arrived and in two days we sailed to Gran Canaria. The new captain was heading to Cap Verde but it was hard to find out with who he was going to go there. At least we were getting a ride to Las Palmas and that was good enough for us.

Fuerteventura is left behind

Thula Thula - Jacques and Ann

Flipper

Flipper hunts

We had catch too

Gran Canaria

Port is full

In Las Palmas was a huge atlantic cruising rally (The ARC) going to start soon and the harbour was reserved for only attenders. Boats to other destinations were forced to anchor in nearby bay. One boat was named Nauta. I assume the owner is the same as of the earlier motor yacht Navetta.

Tahaa (Lanzarote - Fuerteventura)

The 100m ketch was made in Pietarsaari
and had crew from americas cup.

After I was politely kicked out of the loveboat and hadn´t found a new one during the first 2 days I thought the best option for me was fishing in another harbour. I had sent a few couchsurfing requests in the night before but hadn´t got any answers. I also had looked for cheap hostels but the only one i could find was full and others above my budget (30e) so I prepared myself to sleep under the stars. I really should buy a travel mattress.

I went looking for the bus to Playa Blanca but I got a ride from the first car going my direction. After arrival I went straight to talk with the boats as it was getting dark soon. I met few nice catamarans that could possibly take me on board but as I was hoping to go to Brazil and not Caribean I kept looking. When it got dark I thought it is better to wait for next day. As I was walking back I met two frenchmen. The younger one was travelling like me and spoke excellent Spanish and a little bit English. The captain spoke mostly French. We went for a beer and and dinner in their boat. I got to sleep on the sofa and the next day (5th nov) we were already heading to the next island, Fuerteventura.

Jean Pierre (Captain) and Thomas

Mutant banana from Morocco

Sailing along Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura

Autopilot

Gran Tarajal

 My new boat was definately not as fancy as the previous one but there was cool relaxed athmosphere and we managed to keep good speed with only sails. We arrived quite late to the small port of Gran Tarajal and headed to the office. On the way we found a local fiesta and got to participate ourselves too. Free paella and other dishes with beer and wine accompanied with live music was perfect after the days work. The table was soon packed with french people. I spoke spanish with Thomas and later we left to see the delights of saturday night. Although I must say that in Gran Tarajal there were not too much to find.

We had to change berth

The captain would leave in 9th november and we would head then to Las Palmas for more boats.

Ganga (Gibraltar - Lanzarote)

Ready to leave Gibraltar

We started leaving before sunrise but preparations took a lot longer that we expected and we headed to the sea at 1pm. Sea current was against us so we used motor to get to the open. The sea was swarmed with massive ships but with amazing skill and determination we found a way out.
.

 295 Tankers and 1252 Cargoships

Skipping Marocco was my price for nice passage to Lanzarote

Good sailors always have high collars

While taking the picture above I took over 20 shots that did not please me. Finally I got one where I think I look handsome and can proudly show everyone how I see myself as a sailor.

We (mostly Ben) tried to catch fish during the trip and the outcome was one cute bonito. Each day on the boat was much like the other involving lots of sleep at irregular rhythm, beautiful sky, and sometimes ship passing by. In the beginning I felt a bit seasick (though I refused to accept it at first). In my case it did not come too much from stomach but with slight fatigue and head ache. After three days I had accustomed to the conditions and sailing felt comfortable again.

Bonito and blue legged boobie

Cowboy of the ocean

Sunset among others

Day among others

Red and orange

Wave is way bigger than it seems

Window in my room

Sitting on the bow

Monster on board

After five and half days sailing we were happily on land again and it did not take too long to destroy a fair bottle of Olde English cider we brought with us from Gibraltar. Pod of dolphins escorted us for some time but i guess they were slightly shy because most of them left before we could take pictures. Baby dolphins playing in front of the boat were really cute and there was even one handsome jump!

Land ahoy! 

Last of the dolphins

Soon to arrive

After arrival